Acids in skincare might sound intimidating, but they’re actually some of the most effective ingredients for achieving smoother, clearer, and more radiant skin. The key is understanding the differences between AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs—so you can pick the right one for your skin needs. Let’s break it down!
What Are Acids in Skincare?
In skincare, acids are used mainly for exfoliation, meaning they help remove dead skin cells from the surface or deep within your pores. This boosts skin renewal, improves texture, brightens the complexion, and helps address concerns like acne, fine lines, and dullness.
The three most common types are:
-
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid)
-
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid)
-
PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid)
Each one works slightly differently—and suits different skin types.
AHA: Alpha Hydroxy Acids
What They Do
AHAs are water-soluble acids that work on the skin’s surface. They gently dissolve the "glue" that holds dead skin cells together, helping to reveal fresher, smoother skin underneath.
Best For:
-
Dry or sun-damaged skin
-
Dullness and uneven skin tone
-
Fine lines and texture irregularities
Common Types of AHAs:
-
Glycolic Acid: Strongest AHA; great for anti-aging and glow but can be irritating.
-
Lactic Acid: Milder; great for sensitive skin and hydration.
-
Mandelic Acid: Gentle; good for acne-prone and sensitive skin.
Pro Tip:
Since AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, always use SPF when using AHA products!
BHA: Beta Hydroxy Acids
What They Do
BHAs are oil-soluble acids, which means they can penetrate deep into pores. They exfoliate inside the pore lining, helping clear out excess oil and dead skin that cause breakouts.
Best For:
-
Oily or acne-prone skin
-
Blackheads and clogged pores
-
Redness and inflammation
Most Common BHA:
-
Salicylic Acid: The gold standard for fighting acne and calming inflammation.
Pro Tip:
BHAs are generally less irritating than AHAs for people with oily or sensitive skin. They're also perfect for spot-treating pimples.
PHA: Polyhydroxy Acids
What They Do
PHAs are like gentler cousins of AHAs. They exfoliate the skin’s surface similarly but have larger molecules, which means they don’t penetrate as deeply—making them less irritating and perfect for sensitive skin.
Best For:
-
Sensitive skin
-
Rosacea-prone skin
-
Dehydrated or barrier-compromised skin
Common Types of PHAs:
-
Gluconolactone
-
Lactobionic Acid
Pro Tip:
PHAs not only exfoliate but also hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier—ideal if your skin can’t tolerate stronger exfoliants.
